See or be Seen: Capri & Positano

 See or be Seen...

Capri & Positano 

I think I'm safe saying the preferred method of travel along the Amalfi Coast is by ferry.  Sure beats the windy roads with vespas weaving in and out of traffic on hairpin turns with sheer cliffs!  

Capri's Marina Grande 

Being on the water with the mist and breeze was top notch.

On my fabulous family reunion trip in 2011, my sister and I were part of a tour and we were whisked from place to place.  That trip, we stayed in Sorrento and spent a little time in Amalfi, Ravello, Positano, and did a day trip to Capri.  Capri was awesome but I didn't want to leave!  

I wondered what it was like when the daytrippers left the island.  I wondered if it was magical when the crowds thinned and the sun set.  I felt the same about Positano and I'm sure you've heard this from anyone who's locked eyes with those iconic, colorful views- it beckons you, calls to you in your dreams.  I always wondered what it would be like to spend more time amongst its colorful cliffs and vibrant beach clubs.  

Capri's golden hour 

It was decided we'd tackle Capri and Positano - even knowing it was going to be challenging.  Turns out the crowds don't really thin when they daytrippers leave and it's really tricky to find places to stay in the two of the most coveted spots in the world.  

Did that stop us?  No.  Would I do it again?  Yes.  Would I change anything?  no and yes...Capri - I'd stay in the exact same place.  Positano: I'd save up more, stay longer, and maybe stay a little lower (you'll see!)

Stopped in Amalfi on the way to Capri

View of Minori 

Choosing a hotel is never easy, after reading up on reviews and researching, a decision was made.  

Capri Wine Hotel is owned and operated by the wonderful Raffaele & Elena and the property has been in Raffaele's family for generations.  

Champagne aperitivo in the garden

This hotel had incredibly warm, hospitality and wonderful service.  You truly felt like family.  And, if you add on Champagne to your room, you can enjoy a little each evening in the garden before your evening stroll.  Highly recommend.

Capri Wine Hotel Wine Cellar

The hotel has a driver that will meet you at the busy port.  Elena greeted us upon check-in and insisted we settle in and then meet her for a tour and  recommendations.  The hotel had gorgeous gardens and an unbelievable view of Mt. Vesuvius.  All I caught from the Capri overview was a strong recommendation to try the local ravioli!

I remember soaking in the view of Mount Vesuvius from the gardens.  It was unseasonable warm but the salty air coming off of the sea felt so perfect.  

Gorgeous views of Mt. Vesuvius

Setting out for our first wander around Capri, we decided to try Capri Rooftop Lounge Bar, known for its incredible views and delicious apertivo.  This bar, however, was the first (of many) run-ins with the see or be seen crowd and adult temper tantrums.  I was confused.  What's there to be upset about?  This is paradise, the drinks (I wish I wrote down what I had - definitely Campari something) were delicious, they serve beer in a wine glass, there are free olives, the weather was perfect...what the heck was the matter?  Well, turns out, the tantrum is over getting a view table.  We were in the second row of tables and could see just fine.  I soon realized it wasn't about enjoying the view, it was capturing it.  

Capri Rooftop Lounge Bar 

When the influencers couldn't influence the host or in some cases, the manager, for a better table, things got a little ugly.  I guess that's the world we're living in right now. 

Don't let the influencers take over, reserve that view table in advance and soak in the moment.  

Perfectly happy in the 2nd row of tables!

Strolling around about town and loving the people watching, it was decided dinner should be at Panorama, recommended by Elena.  I couldn't wait to try the Capri ravioli and it lived up to the hype.  Made with caciotta cheese & marjoram, then tossed in a tomato sauce, it was yummmmy.  I can't remember what else was ordered, Caprese or buffalo mozzarella in some form I'm guessing.  I wished I had photos of the restaurant and the food but as one knows, dinners are late (9:30 is ideal) which I love but it's not the best for candid photos.  Panorama had am amazing view - I'd recommend reserving a table a little earlier to catch more light.  

Piazzo Umberto I - definitely crowded but looked really fun

The next day, hiking was top of the list!  I loved the path to Arco Naturale. 

Starting in the town center, the crowds thinned with every step.  

It seemed like the path meandered through a neighborhood and I wondered what it would be like to live in a place so magical.  

 

I was in heaven photographing doors.  And then I gasped, the fuchsia house was named "Villa Ferraro".  Ferraro is my great-grandmother's last name.  

In the movie version of my life, I'm all set to inherit this beauty.  

Did I mention Italy was in the beginning days of a heat wave?  There's no rule about how fast you hike but it and we were taking it reallllll easy.  It was a welcome surprise when we realized you actually have to walk through Le Grotelle in order to continue to Arco Naturale.  Brilliant.  It's a picturesque spot to grab a refreshment and take a break.   

That granita saved my life.

Le Grotelle 

Lemon & Orange Granitas 

  

Hey, it's Jatin! 

Arco Naturale 

                  

To make the hike longer, it was decided that checking out the beach clubs was a great idea and wandered down the steep path to the coast only to find a gorgeous beach club I recognized instantly - the iconic Fontelina beach club.

  Photographed by the amazing, Gray Malin, I'd know those navy and white striped umbrellas anywhere!  We were kind of a mess from hiking and not prepared for a beach day and admired from afar.  

 Absolutely stunning.  

Capri kitty

The evening was spent exploring Anacapri - and what a bus ride up!  When a couple of locals next to you are saying the rosary the whole way up the mountain, you know you're in for an adventure.  

 

Anacapri is mellower, down to earth, and absolutely gorgeous.  Elena, from Capri Wine Hotel, told us about a beautiful restaurant along a path that leads to an overlook to enjoy sunset.  

 

After walking for what felt like miles and miles, we found Da Gelsomina one of the most serene and picturesque restaurants I've ever seen.  If I did it again, I'd make a reservation on the terrace for sunset (I'm guessing this would have to be done well in advance) and sit there for hours and hours.  I'm terrible about taking photos of food but thankfully a rockstar at remembering to take photos of sunsets!  

On the walk back, I learned there is a shuttle to the restaurant so you don't have to hoof it.  However, isn't that the magic of Italian vacations?  You can eat pasta at every meal because you'll walk it off?!

Onward to Positano

The same reasons apply to visiting Positano as Capri.  I got a taste in 2011, and I wanted more.  Did these places live up the they hype in my mind.  Yes.  Would I do it differently next time?  Sure thing.  Positano was the only city where I booked an AirBnb.  Places were extremely limited and expensive.  I finally decided on Celestina. 

This Airbnb was one of the nicest I've ever stayed in and the view was out of this world.  The only catch, you had to climb a zillion stairs to get to it.  You know me, I like to move around and I love the mountains but...when you're carrying luggage and it's a heat wave, a zillion stairs is unpleasant to say the least. 

Tile detail

Positano is a vertical city and if you have any issues with walking/heights/etc definitely book a place closer to the sea.  

my favorite stairway 

As we ascended, I was noticing all of the women in Positano are absolutely gorgeous.  I wasn't the only person heading uphill and found myself watching others.  "Why aren't you sweating?" I'd want to ask.  "What's your secret?"  I was hot and sweaty and angry I wasn't more prepared.  I noticed many women wore sundresses with white sneakers for traction and some were in bathing suits and coverups (not happening) - anything goes.  

but, the views were nice 

My mood changed when I saw the view from the AirBnb.  Unbelievable.  Right in the center of the "V" of the city.  It felt like a treehouse.  And, it was more in a neighborhood.  To feel more like locals, we took advantage of the laundry and dried our clothes on the balcony.  No one ever suspected we were American.

 

laundry on the balcony

After a major regrouping, exploring this gorgeous town was in order.  And, trying to get into the famous Franco's Bar was top of my list.  Franco's is a walk-in only bar part of the iconic Le Sirenuse .  Le Sirenuse is probably the most famous and most beautiful of the hotels in Positano.  Putting it out in the universe: my goal is to stay here for my 50th.  The fact that I can even think of my 50th sends me into a tailspin and that's for another blog post! 

Waiting only a few minutes, a table was ready!  I couldn't believe it and what a view.  Places like these are famous for good reason.  I mean, look at the blue and white striped glasses!  I ordered the Franco's Fizz.  

 

One thing I realized quickly was (once again) I was in the middle of Instagram influencer hell.  Young women were dressed in designer clothing with designer handbags in high heels (once again, my questions..."Aren't you hot?"  "How to you walk in those shoes?" "How is your makeup not running down your face?" "Wouldn't a ponytail be a better option?")  Everyone was beautiful, sure, but the glow of the setting sun caused quite the panic.  

The view from Franco's 

Rushing to the railing for the perfect shot, posing, angles, boyfriends doubling as photographers, (but never getting it quite right), women badgering the staff for a better seat with a better view...it was comical and tragic.  I mean, I obviously love taking photos and sharing them but...this was a bit much.  

Did I mention we live in a weird time?!

Once again, don't let the influencers take over, Franco's is iconic and you shouldn't miss it if you're in Positano.

Anywhoo.  Onward to more wandering and dinner.  Settling on Ristorante Bruno, I remember the view, that it was delicious, but sadly, no food pics.  

View from Ristorante Bruno

Ristorante Bruno

Hiking Path of the Gods was scheduled for the next day.  The extreme heat changed the plan and we hiked instead to Pupetto Beach Club at Fornillo Beach.  You can do other fun clubs that you can only reach by boat or even hire a private boat (fun idea for a larger group) but Pupetto seemed just right. 

 

on the way to Pupetto Beach Club 

Beachcombers, the beach club is the way to go for a day of beachcombing.  I was thrilled with my finds in Vietri sul Mare and was only planning to passively search for treasure in Positano.  I actually didn't go to any of the recommended spots in Capri due to crowds (next time I'll be a better scout!) 

Back to the beach club.  The cost was maybe €20 for a chair and €25 for the front row and the front row sounded like the place so that was that.  The chair comes with an umbrella - crucial for the boiling weather and a little table and service!!  You can order as much or as little as you like (some clubs have packages but this one was really laid back) and you can stay as long as you like.  

Let me get this straight.  I am welcome to spend the day here, swim and beachcomb at my leisure, order a pizza and limoncello spritz (new favorite), nap, and use decent bathrooms?  I think we need this at Edgewater.  Or Mentor Headlands.  Or Walnut Beach.  Could you imagine?  And, the umbrellas - doesn't everyone love the colorful umbrellas? I was in heaven. And, found a lot of gorgeous seaglass in an array of teals and greens.  

Positano haul 

The trek to Pulpetto Beach Club included a steep downhill.  Luckily, I read about and easily found a path that led to the main beach in Positano and we could take our usual trek up the mountain.  I truthfully didn't mind the walk after that initial climb. 

Checking out the main beach on the way back 

I didn't get a photo but on the way back, we stopped in a shop that sold, you guessed it, sea glass jewelry!  It was called  Idee D'Arte Positano and is a family run business.  We chatted about working with sea glass and talked about where we like to find it.  They were surprised that you can find beach glass in a lake in the US!  Definitely stop in if you get the chance.  

Also on the way back, Jatin found a great little grocery along the way to our Airbnb and fashioned himself a regular.  

 

Pasta for days!

Olives 
 

He put together a mean aperitivo so we could relax on the balcony after our beach day and choose  a place for dinner.

  

While planning a trip might be my superpower, choosing restaurants is Jatin's.  He made a reservation at Mediterraneo, a place he scouted on the walk to the beach club.  

It was a lively place with a guitarist serenading the tables, the servers and diners singing along - and per the reviews, we tried the black and white pasta - beautiful and delicious.  

One of the favorite meals of the trip.

Look!  I took a pic of the food.

All in all, Positano was a blast.  There's a reason why the most popular places in the world are popular.  Someday I'd like to return in the off season to take it all in without the hustle and bustle (and 90+ temps).  

miss this view 

Up next, my all time favorite city in the world:

FIRENZE 

Grazie Mille,

Natalie